Arbor press bending brake press

At first glance my arbor press bending brake press modification might not seem amateur radio related but in fact the first job for it will be element mounting plate support brackets for a 10m moxon.

As a hobbyist we have probably all bent sheet metal in a vice tapping with bits of wood etc but it’s always a bit of a poor job at the end, certainly when I do it anyway! But some time ago I got hold of a small vice based bending set like this:
vice press brake setAt the time I didn’t actually have a vice only having a drill press vice but the jaws on that don’t open wide enough to take these so it sat around doing nothing for a while.
I did then decide I needed a vice for this and other jobs so got myself one and did some small brackets for my TMF-3 based DXcommander style vertical portable antenna.
brake press fitted into viceBut in making these simple L shaped brackets I noticed a couple of things. It’s really hard to make a fold the exact angle you want at all and even harder to make more than one the same! Also, as my ‘workshop’ is usually the bench in the garden so my vice is packed away when not in use and not bolted down to a bench like most I have to clamp it down to stop all the weight at the front tipping it over. Additionally there is very little ‘throat’ so the longest flange you can make is about 3 inches, the distance above from the bending V to the top of the sliding body part. So I decided I would utilise my arbor press. continue reading

Mini lathe cross slide modification

You may wonder what a mini lathe cross slide modification has to do with Amateur Radio but it is a tool I use a lot for radio gear. Mostly for the plastic bearing rings on my coax loop free guy rings ( https://g1ybb.uk/g1ybb-coax-loop-free-guy-rings/ ) but also for other little items like the YBB Washer ( https://g1ybb.uk/the-ybb-washer/ ) so very closely related to my radio activities.

My lathe is a cheap Warco mini lathe that I bought from an old friend G3LZM (now SK) and it sat unused for a LONG time. But now it sees more action and as a good friend of mine recently bought the Warco super mini lathe and has corrected some of the cost saving shortcuts I am trailing along adding a few to mine. So this one deals with the cross slide, or to be precise, the lead screw.

mini lathe cross slide exploded drawing

As seen in the exploded view above the lead screw (item 5) has a shoulder on it that sits in a machined recess in the cross slide boss (item 4) and it trapped up against the main body of the carriage (item 52). There is no bearing at all and the boss is aluminium. You can see this in my photo below: continue reading

The YBB Wire Winder system for radials

This page describes the YBB Wire Winder system for radials for amateur radio vertical antennas and why I have come up with this design to make winding up vertical antenna radial wires easy.

I’m in the process of using my 50 foot fibreglass push up mast as a multiband vertical antenna as often referred to these days as a DXCommander. The build of that is detailed here:
https://g1ybb.uk/tmf-3-based-dxcommander-style-vertical-portable-antenna/

But one thing I have already discovered in various tests is the wire radials for the ground plane are a complete pain in the butt to deploy and untangle. If you do not spend some time at pack up taming the wires you are surely going to regret it next time!

My radials are in bunches of 6 soldered into one ring terminal per 6. Six wires really love building birds nests for some reason. Currently I am coiling up each wire and securing it with tape, then putting the set of six into a bag to isolate them from all others. This works but is very time consuming and will fail when raining as the tape won’t stick. Here is one set:
6 radials coiled up
As I have several sets of radials of differing lengths I needed to come up with a better solution to make it faster and easier. After some pondering I have come up with The YBB Wire Winder System for radials. continue reading

The GM3SEK mains filter

I’ve looked at the GM3SEK mains filter several times but nevertaken it any further. My worst noise at home varies with beam heading on HF so I suspect it is being received by the antenna itself and assume filtering the mains would have no effect. But recently I was testing an antenna on 80m and noticed quite a bit of noise from the Honda EU10i generator I have which wasn’t there (as I remember) some years ago on 80 using the EU20i. So I decided I would build a GM3SEK filter to try to stop the generator noise and as a side effect, could see what happens at home!

The starting point is on Ian’s site here:
https://gm3sek.com/2019/10/11/clean-up-your-shack-2019/

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TMF-3 based DXcommander style vertical portable antenna

This is a build of a TMF-3 based DXcommander style vertical antenna for portable use because at home I just do not have any space for anything on the lower bands. Also, when I did put up an inverted V once for 40m (hell of a job) it induced so much RF into the house it was not a great plan.

The basics of the DXcommander style verticals are well know, I won’t be going into that. This is focused on making use of my TMF-3 50 foot (15 metres) heavy duty fibreglass push up mast that O bought during lockdown, used for a while to support my lightweight 20m moxon but has been doing nothing since.

This video shows the TMF-3 mast and the guying points I have already made for it (excuse wind noise):

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Wire guides for moxon or cobweb

I have had a few emails now from people asking for STL files to print themselves some of the wire guides I have used on my disguised cobweb or my 20m wire moxon. So I have uploaded 3D printed wire guides for moxon or cobweb antennas in various different sizes for free download.

3D printed wire guide shown fitted to fishing pole

I have no idea what size tubes other people are using so I have made a set that covers poles from 7mm diameter up to 25mm diameter in 1mm increments. continue reading

The YBB boom tether system

Like many hams, when there is a lot of wind about outside I have to check on how the mast is doing. One thing I did not like was the way the wind rocks the beam back and forth on the rotator. I figured this cannot be good long term of the gears, especially as they seem to be mostly plastic. (Unverified)
When you have something like a 20m moxon up the play back and forth looks quite dramatic. So here I am sharing my YBB boom tether system idea.

For a couple of years now I have had a small arm attached to the stub mast and I guyed that down but it was very short and even with a lot of tension the boom still moved about in bigger winds. Also was quite a lot of  sideways downforce on the rotator (I don’t have a cage).

So in the design and build of my new 20/15/10m tri-band 2 ele beam I incorporated a tethering system on the boom itself at each end to have more effect and balance the side loading to the rotator.

This has proven to be very successful, keeping the boom practically motionless while the 20m moxon element dances all over the place. So I thought I would share it as an idea for others, especially those with a christmas tree stack of beams. I always retract the mast when not on the air, but I know others also retract their masts when high winds are due, and this could help then.

This is the mast retracted to about gutter level and the beam tethered. The left hand tether point is close to the 20m driven because the balance point of the beam is to the left of the 10m driven so it was a small contribution to try and reduce the imbalance on the mounting point.

triband beam tethered

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2 ton arbor press tune-up

This may not seem that radio related but an arbor press is a very useful tool, even if it is not used that often. Most recently I have used it to press in my YBB washers into Stauff clamps for an antenna build. I’m tuning it up in order to use a 5 inch vice based brake press set to do some sheet metal folding, mostly as I don’t actually own a vice to use the brake press set in but also because if I did I would only have a couple of inches of throat to bend whereas the arbor press will give me about 5 inches. These are great tools and not expensive but out of the box they don’t feel or work that great so I decided it needed a simple tune-up.

2 ton arbor press
I actually bought an arbor press because I could get what I really wanted which was a lever press RS (Radio Spares) used to sell. If you have one of these in good condition, I need it!!

RS lever press
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DK7ZB dual band 2m+70cm yagi

This was another Covid lockdown project in 2020 to enable me to do some over the air audio checks with locals and maybe give some points away in contests to the locals (my QTH is very poor for VHF/UHF). I wanted something small I could put in the attic. I figured a simple DK7ZB dual band 2m/70cm yagi in the loft with a single feeder would be ideal.

on this page:
https://www.qsl.net/dk7zb/Duoband/4+5_2m-70cm.htm

Martin DK7ZB describes his design for a single feed dual band yagi with 4 elements on 2m and 5 elements on 70cms on a compact 1m long boom.

I already have my element cutting jig  (see here) so cutting the elements was easy enough as usual. I went for the 8mm elements to make it nice and light.

To assemble it I decided I would 3D print not just the dipole box but also the element mounts themselves. The beauty of this over commonly used mounts like the Stauff clamps (see here) is I could design in a feature to ensure the elements are nice and perpendicular to the boom. I also don’t like drilling my tubular elements. For a start it weakens them and also adds a place for inaccuracies to creep in.

So this was my design for the element mount:
element mount design

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The YBB Washer

So many commercial and home brew constructors use Stauff type clamps for attaching yagi elements to the boom but I have until now avoided these because I hate the huge bolt holes that are typically at least 6.5mm in diameter which is sloppy even on a grossly overkill M6 bolt. Of course these clamps were not designed for making antennas but are extremely useful as they come in pretty much every tube diameter there is. So after many builds avoiding these clamps I decided to come up with a way to use them that would satisfy my exacting standards. One night instead of being able to sleep I came up with the YBB washer.

Stauff clamp example

Usually instead I have been making my own elements mounts in some way or other but I am building some HF beams and it’s just convenient to use off the shelf Stauff clamps so I decided I needed to do something about this issue. I recently assembled a commercial beam that had a tapped boom so next to no slop bolt to boom but you could move the element side to side about ±6 inches or more at the ends of a 50MHz element. I had to use a square to mount them: continue reading