Custom coax connector exterior wall mount box

I decided for home I wanted a box just outside where my radio sits that I could plug different antennas into easily, so I looked for a tidy way to run antenna feed lines through the exterior walls. Most were running to a large waterproof box that the antenna feeders plugged into but were a lot larger than I wanted. The box would offer a socket and be cabled through the wall and into the back of the radio. I also wanted it to be basically waterproof and compact.
There are many waterproof boxes on the market of course, but none I felt would be ideal. Then a good friend then got his hands on a 3D printer so we decided to print me a box to my design.

First step is to draw it up. I planned for 2 connector positions (one for each output from the FT-897D) and made it suitable for both single hole bulkhead type connectors and 5 hole panel mount connectors. It will take SO-239 and N-type (my preference) connectors. Both will be cable mount and crimped, which I use in my day job at L Band and above and much prefer to pretty much all other cable fitments for flexible coax.
SO239 panel mount crimpN-type bulkhead socket crimp

The coaxes will be fed through a hole straight through both skins of the house through a vertical mortar joint at an upwards angle and the wall plate part of the box fixed to the wall with two fixings into the horizontal mortar line. (My bricks require an SDS drill to drill holes in, plus this is easier to repair if removed later).
fitted to wall
A simple slide on cover open only at the bottom extending down past the connectors will shield it from even the most horizontal rain.
with cover fitted

Now to send the files over to my very generous friend Paul for 3D printing. He did an initial print of my design exactly as drawn, which took some time for the cover as we didn’t print it the most efficient way up. We got it done, but before I had chance to fit it discovered it was printed in PLA rather than the ABS we thought it was. So Paul decided to redesign it with printing in mind in smaller parts that would be cemented together, having already proven on my Cobweb antenna that this approach was a better plan.

Paul’s design was four pieces rather than my two:
Paul's design
Here is some of the 3D printing and assembly:

The two parts of the weather cover:
2 part cover
For the feeder from the coax box outside to the radio I wanted to add a hi band and mid band ferrite choke as described by GM3SEK here. I wound one with RG223 which was a springy slippery nightmare and one on RG58 which was much easier. There was no way to get the coils of either sitting tidily with just cable ties so I used masking tape to keep things tidy. As where they will come through the wall is very hard to get to I need to wind them on first and will have to pass the shorter tails out through the wall and fit the connectors outside.
hi and mid band chokes

Holes all drilled from outside, and short tails pulled through from inside using the smaller drill and some wire:
coaxes pulled through
Connectors fitted. As well as remembering to fit the crimp ferrules make sure you feed the coaxes through the hole in the coax box BEFORE fitting the first N-type type connector beautifully. Otherwise it needs to be cut off and wasted. Grrrrr. The final SO239 and N-type socket fitments are not as tidy but electrically good:
Coax box fitted to wall
Antenna cable and rain cover fitted. I have also smeared the cables and backs of the connectors with a good layer of vaseline in case any water does manage to run down the wall and down the cables:
ready to use
From concept to reality. Cool.

If anyone with their own 3D printer is interested is making use of this design my friend Paul has made it available on Thingiverse and Youmagine.

Base station mount for fishing pole mast

My current circumstances preclude my having a permanent mast up for antennas so I am having to stick up a portable style telescopic fishing pole with an inverted vee dipole when it gets dark, and take it down again before I go to bed. Quite tiresome but better than nothing.

I started by strapping my 8 metre fishing pole to the rotary washing line that is installed in the garden but it’s a bit of a faff in the dark and I get covered in cobwebs, and it’s a bit wobbly. Also its location means I don’t have room for a 40m inverted vee, and the locations I have for the ends of the dipoles are not in line with the pole so that means it is always stressed and bent over quite a lot. So I needed another solution.
Mast on washing line
Using the very useful Link Dipole Calculator on the SOTA Mapping pages I was able to calculate that there is room for a 20/40m inverted vee if I use a 10m fishing pole and mount to to the corner of a 6 foot brick wall in the back garden and I can arrange the ends of the dipoles to be in a straight line with the mast to relieve stress on it. Both solutions have one end of the dipole coming close to building which is not ideal but the higher pole will help and at least it’s a bungalow so most if not all the actual radiating elements should be above the roofline.
Mast on brick wall
Next challenge is to come up with a quick and simple arrangement to erect it. After looking around and some thinking I decided I needed some sort of cup to sit the bottom of the mast in and a sleeve higher up to extend the mast into giving it secure support. Scouring the DIYs the closest I could find for the upper sleeve was some black 50mm downpipe. This also had suitable wall fixings that keep it fairly close to the wall. However it turned out to be a beautiful fit for the top of the bottom section (no use to me), but sloppy on the next section up.
slack fit on pole
I was trying to think of ways to line the pipe to get a better fit and how I might secure it in the pipe and in talking to a friend who is very good at engineering solutions he suggested heating the pipe and bending it inwards in several places. Perfect!

As there is quite a bit of play I used strips of cereal bar box and masking tape to build up the pole to a nice fit on the tube to keep it centred around the pole.
masking tape spacers each endmasking tape build upnice snug fit
Then a bit of masking tape over the outside to keep it still.
pipe secured to mast
Once set up I used a heat shrink gun to heat up small areas of the pipe and used a teaspoon to press the soft pipe against the pole and hold it there until the plastic cooled a little. I kept the teaspoon in a cup of ice water between uses to keep it cool and cool the pipe quicker. I did three sets of four indentations. Set one at 0° 90° 180° and 270°, 2nd set at 45° 135° 225° and 315°, 3rd set as the first. Then I took off the top card and masking tape and pushed the top edge in as well for a bit more support. I left the bottom entry oversize for easy entry.
pipe with support points
This worked better than I expected! The fit is very close. If I had known how good the pipe would keep the new shapes, I would have wrapped a sheet of printer paper around the pole to have a little freedom on the fit. However, it works and here is the pole standing upside down with the pipe fitted showing it gripping the pole.
pipe fits pole
The cup for the base of the pole took a bit more searching for. Nothing was quite the right size, or if it was it was flimsy plastic. It doesn’t need to be industrial but will need to stand the leverage the top 8 metres or so of pole exerts when the wind blows. After much looking and considerably over budget at £10, I got a metal camping mug from Mountain Warehouse. Of all the metal cups I found it was the only one that was close to the right size and also was parallel sided, which would be useful.

First the handle had to come off. I wasn’t sure how it fixed on so I started sawing it off. First cut through just plastic, then the 2nd hit metal as I cut closer. I decided to just try and break it off. Came off easily and I was able to see it was only a tab spot welded on. So the other was off in seconds.
handle removedspot welded handle
I had also though of how to attach it to the wall as screws through the side wouldn’t work as the heads would be in the way of the pole and the wall thickness of the double skinned cup are very thin anyway meaning it would deform. So it had to be fixed at the base. A simple metal shelf bracket was chosen, cheap and plenty strong enough. In order to line up correctly with the black pipe, the centre of the cup needed to be 55mm from the wall. To make it easy to do I drew a circle a little smaller than the cup base, and positioned the centre of it 55mm from a base line, printed and cut it out, and taped it to the base. It was then easy to line the shelf bracket up with my centreline and the upright part with the base line (left in the photo) so I could mark where the new holes in the shelf bracket needed to be (it goes without saying the ones already in it were no use).
template for bracket
I was then able to drill the bracket and the cup with new holes for fixing the cup to bracket, and a couple extra for rain drainage. As the metal is very thin I also cut a disk of 1.5mm aluminium sheet to spread the load of the screws. I just printed a circle the right size, cut it out, taped it to the aluminium and cut round it with tin snips. A quick file of the corners and it was sorted.
cup and disk drilled
Now just needs bolting up together. I used nyloc nuts so I can do it up tight enough to be sure but not need to crush the cup getting the nuts to stay tight. The disk and bracket spread the load well anyway, but I know they should never come undone. All the fittings are A2 stainless steel so should last a while outside.
mounting bracket fitted
So the pole can sit in the cup but not rest on the heads of the screws I cut a sheet of rubber matting to raise the pole base off the heads. May help absorb some (tiny fraction of) shock if the mast happens to collapse down one day. Ready to go on the wall now.
screw heads covered
All set and just need to screw these to the wall. And a rubbish picture taken in the dark with my phone with the mast in situ.
mast erected

G/WB-013 Garway Hill 17-9-15

As things have been quiet lately I have been doing other things that need attending to but I needed a radio fix. First I thought I’d pop up to my local drive on site that I use for testing antennas and setting up mast systems etc, but then I though why not pop up to Garway Hill G/WB-013 again to activate that again. So I did.

There is a small space to park at SO444247 that is possible to fit a few cars in. A fairly gentle but continuous slope takes you up the obvious track leading to the top field and trig point. The walk up is only a half mile and 121 metres of ascent.
Garway walking route
Took my two daughters (both early 20s now) to get them some fresh air, but soon left the eldest to push the youngest’s wheelchair up the hill for me as time was getting on and it’s slow hard work especially with a decent rucksack on your back as well.

By the time I reached the summit the view had gone. This is a picture the girls took on the way up.garway clouds
At least it wasn’t actually raining. Yet.

For this activation I had considerably reduced the pack weight. Most of it by switching from the FT-987D to a new FT-857D. I also left the beach shelter at home though I would have been better operating from it as it turned out. Also I saved a fair bit of weight switching from a steel lump hammer for the pegs to a lightweight plastic one.
hammerThat was very nice, though the hard ground and light hammer did require some fairly furious hammering to get the small tent pegs in. This resulted in a wild inaccurate swing terminating at my forefinger which is sporting a nice lump and bruise today.

System set up I started on 20m, found a free frequency and spotted myself with Rucksack Radio Tool. Good signal on Garway with Three. I even saw 4G flash up now and then!
No instant pile up tonight, but first contact was in the States, and most of first 10 were too. A nice start. Interestingly, although inverted V antennas are meant to be pretty much omni-directional I did set up with the dipole broadside on to East and West. Steady going, longest gap between QSOs about 3 or 4 minutes. With 23 QSOs in the bag including a Stateside S2S (just!) I decided to switch to 40m to see what was about. I also switched to the other battery at the same time to share the drain.

40m seemed pretty busy and finding a free frequency without an adjacent strong signal took a little while and wasn’t necessarily a 100% success on the lack of adjacent strong signals. I did notice a lot of my QSO signals were really strong both ways. The QSOs came in slow but steady getting 30 QSOs in about 40 minutes. During which I had to get out the umbrella and hold it down with my rucksack and edge the radio underneath into the dry. A lull in callers was an opportune moment to go QRT as my girls by now were bored and cold. I was wet and cold. Although it was only about 14°C the water and air cooling had turned my fingers pretty stiff and I was shaking a bit with the cold. Pretty sure my personal CPU was running slow too! All would have been prevented in the beach shelter.
“Man who not make mistake not make anything”

station 17-9-15
Overall 53 QSOs and one Summit to Summit contact.

20m_17-9-15
40m_17-9-15
QSO squares map 17-9-15

Portable and alternate callsigns on QRZCQ.COM

In order for your QSOs worked when not at home to appear correctly on QRZCQ.COM you need to add the portable and alternative callsigns to your QRZCQ.COM account.

Assuming you have your main account set to your normal callsign (eg G1YBB), to add a portable callsign in your home country (eg G1YBB/P), or an overseas country where you add a prefix or suffix for the country you are working from (eg G1YBB/VP2) is quite straight forward.

Once logged in go to “Account” on the menu on the left:
QRZCQ account
Then for your portable or DX callsign just enter it into the box for a secondary/alias call form and click “ADD”:
QRZCQ new alias
Tick the confirmation that the callsign belongs to you and click “ADD”:
QRZCQ confirm callsign add
Callsign is created. Click “click here to continue” to see your new callsign:
QRZCQ callsign created
New GM1YBB/P callsign in my list. For some reason QRZCQ.COM won’t let me change my GW1YBB/P DXCC setting from England, so the England flag shows, yet set the Scottish callsign correctly. I must report that:
QRZCQ callsign created
Log4OM does not support QRZCQ.COm so I cannot advise on your software settings if your software supports it. So I am uploading the exports ADIF files created by Log4OM.

Use the callsign picker top right to select which callsign you wish to upload QSOs to. I am going to add some older ones to GW1YBB/P:
QRZCQ callsign picker
Once you have selected the callsign, click the “Logbook” menu item on the left:
QRZCQ logbook
There you can choose the “Upload” button:
QRZCQ upload
The rest is self explanatory. Repeat the process (using the callsign picker) to upload ADIF for your other callsigns.

Setting up QRZ.COM
Setting up eQSL
Setting up LoTW
Setting up HRDLOG
Setting up HamQTH
Setting up ClubLog
Setting up Log4OM

Portable and alternate callsigns on ClubLog

In order for your QSOs worked when not at home to appear correctly on ClubLog you need to add the portable and alternative callsigns to your ClubLog account.

Assuming you have your main account set to your normal callsign (eg G1YBB), to add a portable callsign in your home country (eg G1YBB/P), or an overseas country where you add a prefix or suffix for the country you are working from (eg G1YBB/VP2) is quite straight forward.

Once logged in go to the “Settings” at the top of the page:
ClubLog settings
Then click on “Callsigns”:
ClubLog callsigns
ClubLog have made it very easy to add a callsign. Just type in carefully your portable callsign and click “Add Callsign”:
ClubLog new callsign
Done! Repeat for other variations as required. You can link your home country portable callsign to your home callsign if required for the ClubLog awards tables. I haven’t done this as yet.
ClubLog callsign added

ClubLog is now ready to accept your QSOs directed to the correct logbook via your logging software.

In Log4OM each callsign configuration you have set up will have it’s own HamQTH setting although some are common. Setting up multiple configurations for Log4OM is shown here.

Enter the email and password you use to log in to the ClubLog site. That is used for ALL variations of your station locations and callsigns. The unique part that identifies where your logging software uploads the QSOs is the callsign which must match one of the callsigns set up on your ClubLog site.
Here is the info entered into the Log4OM settings for my GW1YBB/P Waun Fach configuration:
ClubLog Log4OM
Just change the callsign to suit on each configuration and QSOs will upload to correct log on HamQTH.

Setting up QRZ.COM
Setting up eQSL
Setting up LoTW
Setting up HRDLOG
Setting up HamQTH
Setting up QRZCQ.COM
Setting up Log4OM

Portable and alternate callsigns on HamQTH

In order for your QSOs worked when not at home to appear correctly on HamQTH you need to add the portable and alternative callsigns to your HamQTH account.

Assuming you have your main account set to your normal callsign (eg G1YBB), to add a portable callsign in your home country (eg G1YBB/P), or an overseas country where you add a prefix or suffix for the country you are working from (eg G1YBB/VP2) is quite straight forward.

Go to the settings gear icon top right of the page when logged in and looking at your profile and choose “Add New Callsign”:
HamQTH new callsign
Fill in the new station details and scroll down to “Save” and save the new callsign:
HamQTH new callsign details
You will be taken straight to the settings page where you can activate the logbook for your profile, set QSL settings etc:
HamQTH new callsign settings
Once settings are made, scroll down to the bottom of the settings page and click “Back” which takes you to your profile page:
HamQTH new profile page
You can see all your created callsigns up on the settings top right:
HamQTH callsigns
HamQTH is now ready to accept your QSOs directed to the correct logbook via your logging software.

In Log4OM each callsign configuration you have set up will have it’s own HamQTH setting although some are common. Setting up multiple configurations for Log4OM is shown here.

The user ID is your main callsign and the password is the password you use to log in to the HamQTH site. That is used for ALL variations of your station locations and callsigns. The unique part that identifies where your logging software uploads the QSOs is the callsign which must match one of the callsigns set up on your HamQTH site.
Here is the info entered into the Log4OM settings for my GW1YBB/P Waun Fach configuration:
HamQTH Log4OM
Just change the callsign to suit on each configuration and QSOs will upload to correct log on HamQTH.

Setting up QRZ.COM
Setting up eQSL
Setting up LoTW
Setting up HRDLOG
Setting up ClubLog
Setting up QRZCQ.COM
Setting up Log4OM

Portable and alternate callsigns on HRDLOG.net

HRDLOG.net is the easiest of the online logging sites to get your QSOs associated with any portable or alternative callsigns you use.

All you need to do is set up multiple configurations in your logging software so that you can have one (at least) with the callsign used on the location. Setting up multiple configurations for Log4OM is shown here.

As long as your configuration has the station callsign set correctly (eg GW1YBB/P) HRDLOG will show that callsign used in your logbook:
HRDLOG log
Set Log4OM (or your particular logging program) to have your user ID (callsign) and the upload key received by email when you signed up. Shown here in Log4OM:
HRDLOG Log4OM
And station callsign set in station details for each configuration:
HRDLOG station callsign
That’s all it needs to work.

Setting up QRZ.COM
Setting up eQSL
Setting up LoTW
Setting up HamQTH
Setting up ClubLog
Setting up QRZCQ.COM
Setting up Log4OM

Portable and alternate callsigns on LoTW

In order for your QSOs worked when not at home to appear correctly on LoTW (ARRL’s Logbook of the World) you need to add the portable and alternative callsigns to your account.
Assuming you have your main account set to your normal callsign (eg G1YBB), to add a portable callsign in your home country (eg G1YBB/P), or an overseas country where you add a prefix or suffix for the country you are working from (eg G1YBB/VP2) is quite straight forward. The process described below may not be the only way to do this but it works for me, and keeps things organised.

First, once you have your initial callsign certificate installed in TQSL you can then request certificates for your further calls, like GM1YBB/P.
Got to “Callsign Certificate” then “Request New Callsign Certificate…”:
LoTW new certificate start
In the next window fill in the desired callsign and DXCC country and click “Next”:
LoTW new certificate next
Hit “Next” again:
LoTW new certificate next again
Enter an email to receive your new certificate and hit “Next” again:
LoTW new certificate email
At the next widow either enter a password for the certificate or don’t enter anything. Then hit “Next”:
LoTW new certificate password
Now sign the new request with your base callsign and click “Finish”:
LoTW new certificate sign
And finally click “Yes” to send the New Certificate Request:
LoTW new certificate send
Repeat this process for all callsigns you plan to use, and when the certificate arrives install it.
You should then have a small list of callsign certificates. (As I have just this second applied for the GM1YBB/P callsign it is not yet available):
LoTW certificate list
Now we need to add the locations that the logging software can use to send the QSOs to the correct callsign log.
For this we head over to the “Station Locations” tab. Here you can see ones I have already used:
LoTW station locations
Click the “Create a new Station Location” button (house icon), use the callsign pulldown to choose the correct callsign and enter the location details and click “Next”:
LoTW new station location
At the next screen you need to name the Station location. This is the name your logging software will need to use to load the QSOs with the correct information. Click “Finish” to complete:
LoTW new station name
And now we have a new location in our available Station Locations:
LoTW new station list
We will repeat this process for each NEW portable spot we operate from.

Now we have that all set up, it’s a simple case of using what we have done in our logging software. In Log4OM each configuration you have set up will have it’s own LoTW setting although some are common. Setting up multiple configurations for Log4OM is shown here.

The user ID is your main callsign and the password is the password you use to log in to the LoTW site. That is used for ALL variations of your station locations and callsigns. The unique part that identifies where your logging software uploads the QSOs is the Station ID, which is the Station Name given to the details in TQSL above. You will very likely (certainly in Log4OM) have to give the path to the ARRL LoTW TQSL installation on your PC too.
Here is the info entered into the Log4OM settings for my GW1YBB/P Waun Fach configuration:
LoTW Log4OM
Repeat for your other location based configurations in Log4OM.

Setting up QRZ.COM
Setting up eQSL
Setting up HRDLOG
Setting up HamQTH
Setting up ClubLog
Setting up QRZCQ.COM
Setting up Log4OM

Portable and alternate callsigns on eQSL

In order for your QSOs worked when not at home to appear correctly on eQSL you need to add the portable and alternative callsigns to your account.
Assuming you have your main account set to your normal callsign (eg G1YBB), to add a portable callsign in your home country (eg G1YBB/P), or an overseas country where you add a prefix or suffix for the country you are working from (eg G1YBB/VP2) is quite straight forward.

Go to “My Accounts”:
eQSL My accounts
And scroll down to Register a New Attached Account:
eQSL register new account
Now fill in your desired new call. I am going to add GM1YBB/P. Note the QTH Nickname is the crux of this stage. This is how your logging software will know the correct log to upload your QSOs to. Once done click

“Create New”:
eQSL create new
Once you click that it takes to to a page saying it will now log you in, but never seems to work for me, so I just go back directly to the home page and click on “My Accounts”:
eQSL My accounts
Now you can see the new GM1YBB/P account. (I now notice I have nicknamed it differently to the GW one which is annoying, but I might be able to edit that – I can and have since):
eQSL all my accounts
The all important nicknames are in the brackets: Home, Portable, Scotland /P, and Wales.
Click on the “login” button to go to that account(you don’t need to re-enter your password):
eQSL new account logged in
From there you can click “My Profile” etc and set up your account just like the base callsign account.
To add new accounts repeat the above process, ensuring nicknames are unique.

You can access all accounts in turn via the login buttons seen after clicking “My Accounts”:
eQSL all accounts logins
Now head over to your logging program and enter the details required for eQSL uploads. In Log4OM, as this is my GM1YBB/P info, then it must go in ALL and ONLY the GM1YBB/P configurations I have set up. This is why once I have set up my first Scottish portable configuration, I clone that for subsequent ones and edit the station details as shown here.

The user ID is your main callsign and the password is the password you use to log in. That is used for ALL variations of your callsigns. The unique part that identifies where your logging software uploads the QSOs is the nickname.
Here is the info entered into the Log4OM settings for my GM1YBB/P configuration:
eQSL Log4OM
Repeat the above steps for all your varied callsigns.

Setting up QRZ.COM
Setting up LoTW
Setting up HRDLOG
Setting up HamQTH
Setting up ClubLog
Setting up QRZCQ.COM
Setting up Log4OM

Portable and alternate callsigns on QRZ.COM

In order for your QSOs worked when not at home to appear correctly on QRZ.COM you need to add the portable and alternative callsigns to your QRZ.COM account.

Assuming you have your main account set to your normal callsign (eg G1YBB), to add a portable callsign in your home country (eg G1YBB/P), or an overseas country where you add a prefix or suffix for the country you are working from (eg G1YBB/VP2) is quite straight forward.
Go to “My Account”:
QRZ My account
And scroll down to Secondary Callsigns and click “Add a new secondary callsign…”:
QRZ secondary callsigns
For portable it is already selected, add your P and click continue:
QRZ add portable
That is nice and easy. There is no mention of any limit to the number you can have of secondary callsigns.

For UK calls, QRZ.COM does not seem set up for us crossing our internal borders. I could find no way at all to add GW1YBB/P. It needs to be added as a managed callsign and you need to get the QRZ.COM support staff to do this. They are pretty responsive though, time difference allowing. The settings page states there is a max of 4 ( so 3 extra after base callsign) but does also say you can request more. So for a SOTA activator who may require G, GW, GM, GI, GD, GU etc my feeling is the support staff will help you out there based on my experience with them.

In the image below there is a box for you to add a managed callsign, but it doesn’t work. (QRZ.COM know this)

The link to request the callsign to be added is here:
https://ssl.qrz.com/support

Here is what I sent, and the quick response once they woke up in the morning:
QRZ support response
Once that is done, it will appear in your managed callsigns list:
QRZ managed callsigns
Clicking edit on your secondary or managed callsigns from the “My Accounts” allows you to set your profile info, and turn on the display of your log page in usual way. You can also edit your address details to make more sense for portable operations as I have done (circled in red below).
What I have decided to do is to add a line of text for each portable spot I operate from so stations working me always know where I have been. This is the page another station will see if they work GW1YBB/P and search for that in QRZ.COM:
QRZ GW1YBB portable info
And on my log page is listed only QSOs I have made with the portable callsign (GW1YBB/P) in this instance:
QRZ GW1YBB portable log
So how do we get these contacts uploaded to the correct place?

This can vary depending on personal preference or whether you have a paid account on QRZ.COM.
Without a paid account your only (unless you want to type them in directly on QRZ.COM that is!) option is to upload ADIF exports from your logging program. With a paid account you can do it automatically as you enter them in programs like Log4OM.

First you need to get into “My Logbook”:
QRZ my logbook
Here you can see I have 3 logbooks set up so far. I can select each to view the contacts from the circled pulldown, and should I want to, add QSOs one at a time using the Add QSO button:
QRZ 3 logbooks

But we don’t want to do that most likely. So click the “Settings” button AFTER choosing the logbook you want to upload to:
QRZ logbook settings
Now we are getting to the business end.
If you are wanting to upload an ADIF export from your logging software (containing ONLY QSOs for the callsign in question) use the button in red circle number 1. Simple enough.
If you are a paid up member and can get your QSOs uploaded automatically as you enter them by your logging software, then number 2 is what you need.
The API key for each log book is unique and that is how your logging program transmits the QSOs to the correct logbook:
QRZ upload and API key
So copy that API key to your clipboard and head over to your logging program and enter that for QRZ.COM uploads. In Log4OM, as this is my GW1YBB/P API key, then it must go in ALL and ONLY the GW1YBB/P configurations I have set up. This is why once I have set up my first Welsh portable configuration in Log4OM, I clone that for subsequent ones and edit the station details as shown here.
Here is the API key entered into the Log4OM settings:
QRZ Log4OM
Repeat the above steps for all your varied callsigns.

Setting up eQSL
Setting up LoTW
Setting up HRDLOG
Setting up HamQTH
Setting up ClubLog
Setting up QRZCQ.COM
Setting up Log4OM